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Couture: then and now

Foreword of the book 'Fashion. A History from the 18th to the 20th Century'. By Akiko Fukai, Chief Curator, The Kyoto Costume Institute

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"Japonism in Fashion" then went on an international tour of five major cities and developed into a six-year traveling exhibition. It was held at the Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris (Palais Galliera), the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, the Brooklyn Museum of Art, and in Tokyo. The show also looks set to travel to yet another location in the near future.

We who work at the KCI have reevaluated fashion history through the exhibitions we have held, and our activities in turn have stimulated creativity in contemporary fashion. The exhibition "Visions of the Body: Fashion or Invisible Corset" was held in 1999, just at the close of the twentieth century, at the National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto, and the Museum of Contemporary Art, Tokyo. This exhibition presented the works of renowned artists and designers of the twentieth century in their attempts to reinterpret fashion in relation to the wearer's body. The exhibition also aimed to predict the relationship of fashion to the future by establishing an overview of this past century, on which so much work remains to be done.

Dedication to all people who wear clothing

How will fashion evolve in the twenty-first century? In the late nineteenth century, few people believed that women would ever be freed from corsets or that one day they would wear skirts revealing their thighs. It is therefore easy to imagine that surprisingly new and innovative ways of dressing will be enjoyed in the near future. The future transformation of fashion might be glimpsed by achieving an overview of the past history of fashion within its historical context.

The Kyoto Costume Institute aims to reassess our past through the study of Western fashion, examine the relationship between fashion and clothing, study the essential meaning behind the wearing of clothes, and suggest the direction that clothing will take in the future. The KCI believes that now, as ever, clothing is an essential manifestation of our very being.

This book presents the beauty and skill involved in the craftsmanship of fabric production and clothing design with high-quality images by excellent photographers. It is the goal of the Kyoto Costume Institute that this collection will be enjoyed as a common heritage shared by all peoples of the world. Finally, I would like to express my sincerest appreciation to all who have unstintingly offered their time and effort on behalf of this publication, and especially to Issey Miyake, Midori Kitamura, and especially Jun Kanai, who offered their expertise. Without her efforts this book would never have reached completion.

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Casaquin, Late 17th Century, Italian. White cotton/linen with polychrome wool embroidery; floral motif; sabot sleeves; with peplum. Inv. AC9176 94-40-3AB